Cocoa

• ‘roasting‘ to further reduce moisture, sterilise the product and, above all, develop the cocoa aromas.
• Separation of the outer skin (cascara) from the seed and grinding of the grain obtained from the separation of the cascara.
• ‘pressing‘: this is the stage during which the cocoa is broken down and the dry part, which will become cocoa powder, is separated from the fatty part, which corresponds to cocoa butter.
• ‘blending‘ during which the different chocolate ingredients (cocoa, cocoa butter, sugar and milk) are mixed; remember, to ensure a high quality chocolate, only cocoa butter must be used.
• ‘refining‘ during which the mass is passed through rollers in order to reduce the particle size of the mixture.
• ‘conching’ which has the purpose of further blending and refining the mixture and, above all, helps eliminate most of the volatile acids still present, improving the resulting tactile sensations and, most of all, enhancing the aromaticity of the product.
• Finally, ‘tempering‘ to make the chocolate shinier, brighter and more stable; in this stage the cocoa butter can be evenly distributed and thus we obtain a bar that can be broken cleanly and precisely.

These complex processes, the fruit of long experience, result in chocolate that is ready to be poured into moulds, and packaged, ready to tantalise the taste buds of consumers.

History of ‘cocoa’, a journey to discover the origins of a ‘legend’ …

… now a common ingredient, once so rare and precious that it was used as a bargaining chip…

Botanists date the spontaneous emergence of the cocoa tree to around 10,000 years B.C.: the plant first spread along the Orinoco River (in Venezuela and Colombia) and was later christened ‘kakawa’ by the pre-Columbian indigenous peoples of Mexico. The seeds or ‘fava beans’ of this plant had such innumerable, valuable properties that it was considered a ‘sacred’ product among the Maya population.

Archaeological finds dating back to 1500 B.C. include the word ‘xocolat’ for the first time and the earliest evidence of cocoa bean processing, whereby a beverage was obtained by mixing the ground beans with hot water, then adding spices and honey to balance the strong bitter power of the cocoa.

In 1502, Christopher Columbus, having landed on the island of Guanaja, received as a welcoming gift, from the indigenous population, an unknown, bitter and spicy drink, considered to be the most precious treasure that one man could give to another. It was Hernan Cortès, between 1525-1528, who guessed its economic value, and brought the first sack of cocoa beans and the first rudimentary tools for processing them before King Charles V of Spain.

And in Italy…?

Thanks to its relations with Spain and the dynastic marriages between the heirs of the royal households, Italy was one of the first countries in which the chocolate tradition took root. In fact, Catherine of Austria, daughter of Philip II and wife of Charles Emmanuel of Savoy, is thought to have brought the ritual of hot chocolate to Turin.

However, for a long time consuming this drink was only affordable for a few people, due to its high cost, comparable to that of gold. In 1678, Antonio Ari became the first chocolatier authorised to sell chocolate publicly: he was granted the first licence by the royal house of Savoy but only for the product in liquid form. In the early 1700s, the use of chocolate became commonplace in Piedmontese salons and soon after, Turin would become a centre of excellence for chocolate production on the continent, a role it still retains today.

The following years saw the birth of numerous brands, which still exist today, and which have made the history of chocolate in Italy; the places where the most important Italian chocolate factories developed in the first half of the 20th century notably include: Novi Ligure, Bologna, Perugia, Alba, Lecco, Modica.

How to choose chocolate: ‘the label’!

When choosing a chocolate bar, in order to ensure they get what they want, the consumer, in addition to checking the percentage of cocoa, must also consult the label to verify the quality of the cocoa from which it is made and the ‘blends’  used; these elements have a decisive impact on the quality of the finished product and consequently also on its organoleptic characteristics. It is important to know that the ingredients are always listed on the label in descending order of quantity, so reading them carefully will help you make your choice.

For example, with reference to cocoa, the best bars are the single varietal ‘Criollo’ type (Porcelana, Chuao, …) in which the country of origin (Venezuela, Colombia, Ecuador…) is also indicated.

To this we can add that, following a European adjustment, the legislation in force now allows other, less valuable vegetable fats to be used instead of cocoa butter; fortunately, in a percentage not exceeding 5% and with the obligation for chocolatiers to clearly state this on the label.

Little is said about the element used to sweeten chocolate and most often we refer generically to ‘sugar’, but in reality, this component also varies and often determines the quality of the chocolate bar. Without delving into the world of the different types of sugars and sweeteners (of which there are many), it is important to know that the quality of a chocolate bar can also be assessed by reading the sequence of ingredients and, as far as sugar is concerned, the further down the list it is the better!

Dark or milk? The choice is yours …

But in the end, let’s face it, we love chocolate in all its forms because it appeases our sweet tooth, our desire to pamper ourselves and our brain. Each of us has his or her own personal tastes and in Italy there are two ‘sides’, those who love dark chocolate and those who adore milk chocolate; just think that the annual per capita consumption is (about) 3 kg per person, practically split in half between dark and milk chocolate.

But what is the real difference between milk and dark chocolate?

The difference is simple: in the case of dark chocolate, cocoa paste must be at least 45% of the total, cocoa butter 28%, and as the percentage of cocoa paste increases, the sensation of bitterness in the mouth will be more pronounced. Milk chocolate is much sweeter. This is because, in its processing, in addition to cocoa paste, the bar contains at least 12-14% milk solids and about 4% milk fat. Not only that, but it also usually contains vanilla and sugar to increase its sweetness.

We should also remember that the higher the percentage of cocoa in chocolate, the higher the intake of protein, fat, carbohydrates, minerals and B vitamins. Of course, it is always best to go for quality chocolate free from artificial ingredients, and with a high cocoa percentage, which means less cocoa butter and sugar. High quality chocolate will melt in the mouth without leaving an oily sensation on the palate, the taste will be rounded and its mouth feel will be free of lumps, irrespective of the percentage of cocoa contained in the bar (even with 100% cocoa).

 Storage tips

We recommend storing chocolate products in a cool, dry place, avoiding exposure to the sun. If correctly stored, chocolate will retain its organoleptic characteristics even for many months, while humidity and temperature changes will inevitably lead to the alteration of the its components, creating blotches on the surface (referred to as ‘bloom’). Remember though, that although this may look unappetising, it does not make the chocolate unfit for consumption. Once the original packaging has been opened, chocolate should be wrapped in tin foil and then in cling film.

Chocolate and health

Cocoa and all cocoa products in general (some more, some less) are rich in polyphenols, which are powerful antioxidants. Clinical studies have shown that these organic elements have several positive effects, since they increase ‘good’ cholesterol at the expense of ‘bad’ cholesterol and reduce oxidation processes. They have also been found to have a beneficial function on the tissues of the internal organs, stimulate our learning abilities and play a significant role in combating stress.

In the 1500s, in Italy, the use of this ‘exotic’, bitter-tasting drink was a source of heated debate in ecclesiastical circles. Here, there was no certainty as to whether it should be considered a drink or a foodstuff and therefore it was unclear whether it could or could not be consumed during Lent … only the intervention of Pope Pius V, with a papal bull, clarified that this ‘Indian broth’ (as it was called) could be consumed.